{"id":4536,"date":"2021-02-23T18:47:17","date_gmt":"2021-02-23T18:47:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/tasteporto.com\/?p=4536"},"modified":"2024-10-25T21:57:20","modified_gmt":"2024-10-25T21:57:20","slug":"chef-isa-cordaro-sharing-a-meal-in-my-family-has-always-been-a-sacred-thing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tasteporto.com\/zh\/chef-isa-cordaro-sharing-a-meal-in-my-family-has-always-been-a-sacred-thing\/","title":{"rendered":"Chef Isa Cordaro: &#8220;Sharing a meal, in my family, has always been a sacred thing&#8221;"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">One Chef at a time \u2013 Meet Isa Cordaro, Chef at Comunale<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>This interview was conducted online during the pandemic, providing insights into the restaurant\u2019s situation at that particular time.\u00a0From Covid-19 to the food production chain and the opening of her new restaurant in a tumultuous 2020, Chef Isa Cordaro reveals her thoughts and feelings about food. Continue scrolling to read the original interview below (in portuguese).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Comunale opened during the coronavirus pandemic. It was the 6th restaurant that you opened in your career and the 2nd restaurant that you opened as the owner. What advice do you have for someone who wants to open a restaurant?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>A restaurant is like a child and running a restaurant means that you will be busy all the time &#8211; you&#8217;ll think about your restaurant even when you take the day off. So it is important to be aware that this is a project that will make you miss some night&#8217;s sleep and force you to work hard. <br><br>I believe that good planning and setting money aside for the first months after opening are essential items.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The name of the restaurant &#8211; Comunale &#8211; suggests &#8220;communion, community, what can be shared&#8221;. How did you come up with the idea for the restaurant&#8217;s name? <\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>We came up with this idea &#8211; &#8220;Comunale&#8221; &#8211; because it is a word that sounds the same in many languages (Italian, French and Spanish) although the spelling is sometimes different, which makes it easy to understand. We wanted to bring this idea of sitting down together to eat and share good times and communal meals together with family and friends.  Our recipes are inspired by our family recipes, our roots. <br><br>We focus on our natural, slow-fermentation bread, which for us is the symbol of sharing.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/tasteporto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/interview-with-a-Porto-chef.jpg\" alt=\"interview with a chef\" class=\"wp-image-2439\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photograph: @comunaleporto<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Portugal&#8217;s gastronomic tradition is proof that &#8220;eating&#8221; and &#8220;sharing&#8221; are practically synonymous. <a href=\"https:\/\/tasteporto.com\/petiscos-not-tapas\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Our &#8220;petiscos&#8221; and the verb &#8220;petiscar&#8221;<\/a> (generally best done with friends) are an example of this, which leads us to the question: Do you prefer to eat alone or with others? <\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>With others, always! For me, kitchens are about food, love, making memories and a table surrounded by loved ones. <br>Sharing a meal,  in my family, has always been a sacred thing: it was the moment when we all met after a full day, we talked, we had fun, we paid attention to what we were eating. That&#8217;s why this moment is so important for me. <br>Even when I&#8217;m eating alone, I try not to do it under pressure. I try to eat without distractions; I focus on the act of eating and not on my cell phone or tv instead. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Comunale has a menu inspired by &#8220;modern European cuisine&#8221; and every guest can see that there is a lot of respect for local ingredients. Do you believe that chefs have a role in safeguarding the national identity? And if so, in what way? <\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>I believe so. The role of a chef has changed. Chefs do more than just prepare delicious food. Chefs have to think about the entire production chain which involves choosing a certain ingredient and this is, of course, a political decision. <br><br>In addition to respecting the ingredients (for example using every single part of an animal), it is essential to know where our food comes from. And this involves choices that are directly linked to a country&#8217;s gastronomic culture, its customs, traditions and national identity. <br><br>Brazil is a beautiful example of this. We have incredible chefs working on the &#8216;rescue&#8217; of ingredients that, until that moment, were despised for not being considered \u201cnoble\u201d; we also have some good examples of chefs working to preserve some species of vegetables that are at risk of extinction due to the agribusiness and that are no longer cultivated. <br><br>Choosing to buy from a small producer helps to safeguard the national identity and keep the local production chain alive. <br><br>In our restaurant menu, you won&#8217;t find traditional portuguese dishes. I leave it to the ones who are more knowledgeable about it, although I really like it. However, I use almost exclusively Portuguese products from small producers. We use certified Mirandesa meat, local flour ground in stone millstones and seasonal ingredients. Imported products are, after all, unsustainable and it is always possible to adapt any dish to the local ingredients, which makes it even more interesting.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Let&#8217;s imagine this is our first time in your restaurant. What is the one dish that I will regret not eating if I don\u2019t eat it here?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>This is a tough question because we don&#8217;t have a standard menu. The lunch menu, from Monday to Friday, changes every week and at dinner time we also work according to our inspiration and the availability of ingredients. You can visit us two or three times and you probably won&#8217;t eat the same dishes. There is only one meal that is repeated every month, which is the Gnocchi della Fortuna, on the 29 of every month. It is a Gnocchi made with orange and grilled sweet potatoes, pesto sauce and cherry confit tomatoes. There&#8217;s a high demand for it! <\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/tasteporto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/interview-with-a-chef.jpg\" alt=\"interview with a chef\" class=\"wp-image-2439\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photograph: @comunaleporto<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Is the &#8220;Takeout-and-Delivery-Only Model&#8221; very demotivating?\n<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>It is a difficult phase for everyone, but it is necessary to stop the spread of the pandemic and we know that collective collaboration is key. But it is a little frustrating not to have people eating inside, not to see the reaction when they are eating my food and not really knowing how the dish will get to my guests&#8217; homes. We have to reinvent ourselves, find different menus and think about dishes that will arrive at the right temperature and in the right condition.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What is your favorite cuisine to cook?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>I am very influenced by my Italian and Lebanese origins. These are the cultures that I&#8217;m most familiar with and that bring me fond memories. But French cuisine was very important in my culinary education as a professional cook. Through French cuisine, I learned the techniques and the theory and I keep coming back to French cuisine every time I have to consult or study something food-related. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Is there a meal that makes your eyes sparkle and shine?\n<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>My grandfather&#8217;s kibbeh nayyeh.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">We know that you love traveling. What locale has surprised you the most?\n<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Russia. I ate very well in that country and tried a few different dishes, which I didn&#8217;t know much about. It was surprising to get to know new flavors and eating habits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">When are you happiest at work?\n<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>When someone praises the meal I prepared and leave happier than they were before. This means that I achieved my goal of providing a positive experience and making someone happy for a moment.\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">If you never became a chef, in what other ways would you use your creativity?\n<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>I honestly think that cooking is the only thing I can do (haha) &#8230; I studied journalism but didn&#8217;t finish college. I think I would have followed a more academic path, giving classes, or being a researcher, I really like history and sociology.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Let&#8217;s end with a drink. You&#8217;re sitting down in your fantasy bar. What&#8217;s in your glass?\n<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Lately, in my glass, there is a drink that Alex Miranda (my partner and companion) makes at Comunale restaurant, the Fitzgerald: gin, angostura and lemon. Very fresh and fragrant! <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">PORTUGU\u00caS: You can read the original interview below. <\/h3>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/tasteporto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/chef-isa-cordaro.jpg\" alt=\"Interview with a chef\" class=\"wp-image-2439\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photograph: @leandromartinsstudio<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">O Comunale abre no centro do Porto em pleno estado de emerg\u00eancia. Foi o 6.\u00ba restaurante que a Isa inaugurou na sua carreira e \u00e9 o 2.\u00ba restaurante que abre enquanto fundadora. Que conselhos tem para algu\u00e9m que quer abrir um restaurante?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Restaurante \u00e9 como um filho, \u00e9 uma atividade que toma todo teu tempo, e provavelmente voc\u00ea pensar\u00e1 nisso at\u00e9 quando est\u00e1 de folga. Ent\u00e3o \u00e9 importante ter essa consci\u00eancia de que \u00e9 um projeto que tirar\u00e1 muitas noites de sono e te obrigar\u00e1 a trabalhar muito mais. Acredito que um bom planejamento e um caixa para segurar alguns meses s\u00e3o itens fundamentais.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">O nome do restaurante &#8211; Comunale &#8211; sugere &#8220;comunh\u00e3o, comunit\u00e1rio, o que pode ser partilhado&#8221;. Como surgiu a ideia para este nome?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Pensamos em Comunale pois \u00e9 um nome que est\u00e1 em algumas l\u00ednguas como italiano, franc\u00eas e espanhol \u2013 embora tenha diferen\u00e7as na grafia \u2013 e, portanto, seria de f\u00e1cil entendimento. Depois, porque o nosso conceito no restaurante \u00e9 trazer essa ideia afetiva de sentar \u00e0 mesa e partilhar com amigos e fam\u00edlia bons momentos e bons pratos, j\u00e1 que a nossa inspira\u00e7\u00e3o vem de receitas de fam\u00edlia e de nossas origens. <br><br>Focamos no nosso p\u00e3o de fermenta\u00e7\u00e3o natural e lenta, que para n\u00f3s \u00e9 o alimento s\u00edmbolo de partilha.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">A tradi\u00e7\u00e3o gastron\u00f3mica de Portugal prova que &#8220;comer&#8221; e &#8220;partilhar&#8221; s\u00e3o praticamente sin\u00f3nimos na nossa cultura. Os &#8220;petiscos&#8221; e o o pr\u00f3prio verbo &#8220;petiscar&#8221; na companhia de amigos s\u00e3o disso exemplo. Tudo isto para lhe perguntar se prefere comer sozinha ou acompanhada?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Sempre acompanhada! Como disse, a cozinha para mim \u00e9 bastante afetiva e me remete \u00e0 mesa cheia de pessoas queridas. Minha fam\u00edlia sempre considerou as refei\u00e7\u00f5es \u201csagradas\u201d: era o momento em que todos nos encontr\u00e1vamos depois de um dia cheio, convers\u00e1vamos, nos divert\u00edamos, prest\u00e1vamos aten\u00e7\u00e3o naquilo que est\u00e1vamos a comer, por isso para mim \u00e9 t\u00e3o importante este momento.\nMesmo quando tenho que fazer alguma refei\u00e7\u00e3o sozinha, tento sempre que poss\u00edvel n\u00e3o fazer com pressa, ou a ver o telem\u00f3vel ou \u00e0 televis\u00e3o e sim concentrar-me naquilo que estou a comer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">O Comunale apresenta um menu inspirado na &#8220;cozinha europeia moderna&#8221; e onde se nota muito respeito pelos ingredientes locais. Acredita que os chefes de cozinha t\u00eam um papel na salvaguarda da identidade do pa\u00eds onde actuam? <\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Acredito que sim. O papel hoje em dia de um chef \u00e9 muito mais que cozinhar bem, \u00e9 pensar em toda a cadeia produtiva que envolve a escolha por determinado ingrediente, \u00e9 uma decis\u00e3o pol\u00edtica. <br><br>Al\u00e9m da import\u00e2ncia em ter respeito ao ingrediente, como por exemplo, usar todas as partes de um animal, \u00e9 fundamental ter conhecimento da origem, de onde vem a nossa comida. E isso envolve escolhas que est\u00e3o diretamente ligadas \u00e0 cultura gastron\u00f4mica de um pa\u00eds, refletindo em seus costumes, tradi\u00e7\u00f5es e identidades.<br><br>O Brasil \u00e9 um exemplo bel\u00edssimo neste aspecto, temos incr\u00edveis chefs trabalhando no resgate de ingredientes que at\u00e9 ent\u00e3o eram desprezados por n\u00e3o serem considerados \u201cnobres\u201d ou mesmo na preserva\u00e7\u00e3o de algumas esp\u00e9cies de vegetais, por exemplo, que est\u00e3o em risco de extin\u00e7\u00e3o devido ao agroneg\u00f3cio e que deixaram de serem cultivadas. Ent\u00e3o escolher comprar de um pequeno produtor \u00e9 colaborar para esta cadeia continuar viva, mantendo a identidade de um territ\u00f3rio. <br><br>No meu menu n\u00e3o h\u00e1 pratos da cozinha portuguesa tradicional, prefiro deixar para quem \u00e9 mais entendido nisso, embora goste imenso. Entretanto, opto quase que exclusivamente por produtos portugueses, de pequenos produtores. Usamos a carne Mirandesa certificada, farinha local mo\u00edda em m\u00f3s de pedra, procuro ingredientes da \u00e9poca. Produtos importados s\u00e3o al\u00e9m de tudo pouco sustent\u00e1veis e sempre \u00e9 poss\u00edvel adaptar um prato com ingredientes locais,que o torna ainda mais interessante. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Vamos imaginar que esta \u00e9 a nossa primeira vez no Comunale. Qual \u00e9 o prato que vamos seguramente arrepender-nos de n\u00e3o ter experimentado?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Esta \u00e9 uma pergunta dif\u00edcil, porque n\u00e3o temos menu fixo! O menu de almo\u00e7o, de segunda \u00e0 sexta-feira, muda todas as semanas e aos jantares tamb\u00e9m trabalhamos conforme \u00e0 nossa inspira\u00e7\u00e3o e \u00e0 disponibilidade de ingredientes.\n\nPode ir nos visitar duas ou tr\u00eas vezes e provavelmente n\u00e3o comer\u00e1 os mesmos pratos.\n\nH\u00e1 apenas um prato que se repete todos os meses, que \u00e9 o Gnocchi della Fortuna, todos os dias 29. \u00c9 um Gnocchi feito com batata doce laranja e grelhado, molho pesto e tomate cherry confit. E \u00e9 bastante disputado! <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Trabalhar apenas com take-away e entregas \u00e9 muito desmotivador?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00c9 uma fase dif\u00edcil para todos, por\u00e9m necess\u00e1ria para conter o avan\u00e7o da pandemia e colaborar com o coletivo. Mas \u00e9 um pouco frustrante n\u00e3o receber as pessoas no restaurante, n\u00e3o ver a rea\u00e7\u00e3o quando est\u00e3o a comer minha comida e n\u00e3o saber de fato como o prato chegar\u00e1 em suas casas. A todo tempo temos que nos reinventar a propor menus diferentes e a pensar em pratos que chegar\u00e3o com a mesma qualidade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Qual \u00e9 a sua cultura gastron\u00f3mica favorita para cozinhar?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Sou bastante influenciada pelas minhas origens, italiana e libanesa, s\u00e3o as culturas que me s\u00e3o familiares e tenho mem\u00f3rias afetivas. Mas a cozinha francesa \u00e9 muito importante para a minha forma\u00e7\u00e3o como cozinheira profissional, foi a que me fez estudar, praticar, ter t\u00e9cnica e a que sempre recorro nas minhas consultas ou estudos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Qual \u00e9 o prato que lhe coloca um brilhozinho nos olhos?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>O kibbeh nayyeh do meu av\u00f4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Sabemos que adora viajar. At\u00e9 agora que pa\u00eds a surpreendeu mais em termos gastron\u00f3micos?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>R\u00fassia, comi muito bem e pratos bastante diferentes, que eu tinha pouca refer\u00eancia. Foi surpreendente conhecer novos sabores e h\u00e1bitos alimentares.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">O que a faz mais feliz no seu trabalho?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>O melhor momento do meu trabalho \u00e9 quando algu\u00e9m elogia a refei\u00e7\u00e3o e sai satisfeito e surpreendido. Significa que atingi meu objetivo em proporcionar uma boa experi\u00eancia e fazer algu\u00e9m feliz por um momento.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Se n\u00e3o tivesse seguido este caminho, de que outra maneira acabaria a usar a sua criatividade?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Sinceramente acho que s\u00f3 sei cozinhar (haha)&#8230; Estudei tamb\u00e9m jornalismo, mas n\u00e3o conclu\u00ed a faculdade. Acho que teria seguido um caminho mais acad\u00eamico, dando aulas, ou sendo pesquisadora, gosto muito de hist\u00f3ria e sociologia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Sabemos que tamb\u00e9m faz bons drinks. O que est\u00e1 no seu copo neste momento?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>No meu copo ultimamente est\u00e1 um drink que o Alex Miranda (meu s\u00f3cio e companheiro) faz no Comunale, o Fitzgerald: gin, angostura e lim\u00e3o. Bem fresco e perfumado! <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Meet Isa Cordaro, Chef at Comunale restaurant in the beloved city of Porto.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":4545,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[154],"tags":[157,191],"class_list":["post-4536","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-one-chef-at-a-time","tag-interview-with-a-chef","tag-one-chef-at-a-time"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v24.9 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Interview: Chef Isa Cordaro about her new restaurant in Porto<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"From Covid to the food production chain and the opening of a restaurant in, Chef Isa reveals her thoughts.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, 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